On front wheel bearings you adjust the clearance with the spindle nut.On a Getrag you stack thin shims.For new bearings you want a +.006 preload. The bearings in the Getrag are Timken tapered roller bearings just like the front wheel bearings. This wears out the case and causes the trans to get real hot real fast.Then often times the case will crack between the main shaft and the countershaft bearing bores. This causes the race in the case to lock on the cone and rotate in the case. This loads the bearing too tight.When the trans heats up things expand. The failure comes when the clearance is too tight (TOO MANY SHIMS) Then the tail shaft housing goes over the part of the race that sticks out pressing it down onto the cone.There are shims that go between the race and the tail shaft housing that adjust the bearing clearance. What you have is a Timkin tapered roller bearing pressed onto the main shaft.the race is then placed into the rear of the case partially sticking out. The bearing that fails is the rear main shaft bearing.This happens due to some of the things I mentioned earlier in this thread. Here is the excerpt from Terry aka Mysteryman that I cited, and the link to the forum for tdr members: Here is an old write up from Turbo Diesel Register on the history of the Getrag G360 problems and solutions. Most of the kids these days can't drive one so even if they do try to steal it chances are they cant get it going. Driving a manual is becoming a lost skill. Get it coasting in 2nd or 3rd gear and pop the clutch and you're in business.Īnd along those lines. Just make sure you park on a hill when you stop it. As long as you can turn the fuel on with a 12 valve you can bump start it. Lots of good options for not a lot of money for good cheap trucks.Īnother thing to consider with a manual is if there is ever an EMP and worst case scenario. Don has laid out the perfect template for those trucks. Heck you could even look for a 12 valve 1st or 2nd gen dodge and not have to do a swap. I kind of wished that's what I had looked for before I bought my Ford. Another awesome vehicle for this is an older suburban. Heck I paid $3750 for my crew cab long box 4x4. You can find 4x4 OBS Fords all day long for cheap. May just have to find a new housing and transfer case. Can't say for sure if the tranny is different or not but I don't think it would be. Reverse shackle kit and some super duty springs and you're only in 5-600 for the parts not including the axle. I'm just guessing cause I haven't looked into it but it shouldn't be to hard to convert to 4x4. You need all the gears when driving a big truck but it's overkill in a light duty truck. Pretty cool but super heavy and not necessary. I did watch a video awhile back of a dodge with an Eaton 10 speed in it. I think going with an older auto built up like in Square D or a manual is the best choice for simplicity and durability behind the Cummins. As stated though they are heavy and require a bunch of electronic controls. The 68RFE in the various dodges I've owned has been great. But it is a wear item obviously and you have to factor that into your equation.Īllisons are great but so are all the transmissions in late model diesels. South Bend Clutch and Valair are two of the best. Luckily there are some top notch companies making clutches for street trucks. Have to strike a balance between holding the power you have and easy engagement. Clutch selection is key in a manual though. My ZF5 is also a good choice but that would depend on what it's going in as t wouldn't make sense to source out a ford tranny to put it into a non ford. Plus they are easy to find adapters for because they were a factory option. No manual tranny love? The NV45 are known to perform well with the Cummins.
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